Do Jaga Lam Lhakhang

On our recent trip to Punakha, we came across Do Jaga Lam Lhakhang, a temple situated just 20 minutes away from Punakha on the road to Gasa. It wasn’t part of our original plan, but on the way back, we decided to stop and explore this spiritual site. The moment we set foot there, the serene atmosphere of the temple pulled us in, and it quickly became one of the most memorable parts of our journey. The temple is tied to a fascinating story that centers around a Bangladeshi yogi named Mahasiddha Vanaratna, who is known to the Bhutanese people as Druptop Ngagi Rinchen or Do Jagar Lama. His journey and legend left us in awe, adding an even deeper layer of magic to the site.

We learned that the yogi came to Punakha in search of a place where his mother had been reborn as a frog inside a rock, a symbol of hell, due to her previous sins. This rock, according to the legend, was a key to her salvation, but it wasn’t just any ordinary rock. When Druptop Ngagi Rinchen reached Punakha, he located the rock, but it was in the possession of an old woman named Aum Ritsa Chum. In Bhutanese culture, asking for something like a rock could be seen as strange, but this wasn’t just about the physical stone—it was about the spiritual essence it held for the yogi.

Since the rock belonged to the old woman, he couldn’t claim it outright. He approached Aum Ritsa Chum with a humble request: he needed the rock to release his mother’s soul from its frog form and save her from eternal suffering. The old woman agreed but set a condition. In exchange for the rock, Druptop Ngagi Rinchen had to serve her for three years, performing any tasks she assigned. For three long years, the yogi worked tirelessly for Aum Ritsa Chum, doing all kinds of odd jobs, from household chores to tending her land. Yet, despite the physical exhaustion from his labor, his spiritual practices never ceased. Each night, after a long day of work, he would meditate in silence, biding his time until the day he could finally claim the rock.

At the end of the three years, the yogi’s perseverance paid off. Aum Ritsa Chum honored her promise and gave him the rock. With his spiritual powers, Druptop Ngagi Rinchen called upon lightning to split the rock in half. Witnessing this extraordinary feat must have left the onlookers speechless. According to the legend, when the rock was cut in two, a frog emerged from inside. This was no ordinary frog, but the reincarnation of his mother, trapped by her sins in this form for countless years. With one swift move, the yogi crushed the frog, releasing her soul from the curse and allowing it to ascend to heaven. Her salvation was complete, and the yogi’s journey had come full circle.

We walked closer to the rock, amazed by the clean cut down its center. It looked as though it had been perfectly sawn in half—something that would have seemed impossible without the aid of divine power. The story we had heard seemed more real than ever, especially as we stood next to this physical reminder of the yogi’s miraculous deed. It wasn’t just a story anymore; it was something we could touch and feel, adding an incredible sense of awe to the whole experience.

The legend of Druptop Ngagi Rinchen speaks volumes about Bhutanese culture and spirituality. The rock, a seemingly simple object, symbolizes not just the release of his mother’s soul, but the power of perseverance, faith, and selfless service. This story carries profound teachings: the importance of devotion, the significance of meditation, and the belief that no task is too menial if it leads to a greater spiritual purpose. In Bhutan, stories of yogis, saints, and spiritual masters like this one are deeply woven into the fabric of daily life. People carry the lessons from these tales into their own lives, as they believe in the power of karma and the possibility of spiritual redemption.

After taking in the magic of the temple and the rock, we continued our journey back to Punakha town, where we enjoyed a simple but satisfying lunch. The conversations we shared over the meal were filled with reflections on what we had just experienced. It wasn’t just the physical journey that left an impact, but the spiritual one. We had encountered a story of faith, redemption, and transformation that reminded us of the power of the human spirit to rise above even the most difficult of circumstances.

The visit to Do Jaga Lam Lhakhang wasn’t just another sightseeing stop—it was an encounter with Bhutan’s rich spiritual history and a reminder that, sometimes, the journey matters just as much as the destination. This beautiful temple, standing humbly in the heart of the Bhutanese landscape, holds within it the lessons of a yogi who was willing to serve in order to save, and a rock that bore witness to the transformation of a soul.

As we left the temple, the sense of peace and accomplishment lingered with us. It felt as though we had stepped into another world for a brief moment, touched by the divine, before returning to our everyday lives. The legend of Druptop Ngagi Rinchen, his mother, and the rock will stay with us forever as a reminder of the magic and spirituality that Bhutan offers to those who are open to experiencing it.